Killer Kayaking…
This journey began like most others. Decisions to be made about where to stay, how to get from point A to point B, who to contact for guiding and tracking, what to pack, etc. Yet this journey was a little different than some of the others. This journey entailed not one but two families fulfilling a dream to track and observe one of the largest and fiercest predators in all the world’s oceans – the killer whale.
“Orcinus orca” translates as “from the underworld” in Latin. The Haida name for orca, keet, means “supernatural being.” Largest members of the order Cetecea and family Delphinidae, they are often referred to as killer whales.
Unfortunately, due to the impact of years of commercial whaling, decades of capture for the entertainment business and other environmental issues these “blackfish” have suffered tremendous declines in their numbers, essentially rendering them critically endangered. For these reasons the families decided to journey together to the Puget Sound area off the coast of Washington to experience and observe these magnificent creatures in the wild before they can no longer be seen.
Plans were made, travel arranged and small details were tended to prior to departure in early July. The two families, Lou Ann, Lew and Miranda and also Rita, Art and Brandon met in Tampa to depart for flights bound for Seattle. Related as cousins (Art and Lou Ann), this presented the first time these two families journeyed together making the trip that much more unpredictable yet exciting at the same time!
As can sometimes happen when traveling, things began smoothly but quickly became problematic. The initial flight from Tampa was delayed due to mechanical issues which impacted the ensuing connections from Charlotte to Seattle and then to Friday Harbor on San Juan Island, the final destination. After much rescheduling, the families arrived at their inn at Friday Harbor. However this was not before traveling on three separate flights, renting a car for a 2-hour drive and hopping on a ferry for an hour – totaling over 15 hours of travel. Once off the ferry the group found a quaint place to grab dinner and relax, the Blue Water restaurant. The sheer exhaustion of the day was superseded by the anticipation of what was to come.
The following morning breakfast was downed and the group headed to the guide outpost in Friday Harbor. From there the group was transported to Snug Harbor about 1/2 hour away where they met their kayak guide, Adrienne with Crystal Seas Kayaking, who would lead them to their destination – Deadman’s Bay off of Lime Kiln Point State Park where the killer whales often frequented offshore.
After safety instructions were given everyone settled into their sea kayaks. Lou Ann and Lew in one, Art and Rita in another and Brandon and Miranda in the other. Adrienne lead the group in her kayak into the Harbor against the current and ultimately out to the open water of the Sound. The sun was shining and the water temperature was a very cool 48 degrees. As a result of the frigid water temperature, the group was warned that capsize could prove deadly as hypothermia would set in quickly – within 20 minutes!
The teams followed Adrienne along the shoreline looking for any signs of sea life yet concentrating on maneuvering the kayaks to avoid capsize or worse. Various sea birds (guillemots, gulls, eagles, etc.) were pointed out and explained as kelp beds became obstacles for the neophyte kayakers.
After about 35 minutes of kayaking, Adrienne (with radio in hand and communicating with other guides and trackers in the area) informed the group that a mix of J and K pods (two of three resident whale pods that recently returned to the Sound) were sighted 25 miles North of the group’s current position. Since the whales can travel over 100 miles in a day this news proved very disappointing as it seemed highly unlikely that a sighting would happen given the pod’s proximity to the group. A preverbal needle in a haystack! Nevertheless, the group remained optimistic since there were other pods as well.
The group continued to kayak south along the shoreline toward their destination of Deadman’s Bay where they would pull ashore to lunch. Several Harbor seals were spotted along the way. They popped up sporadically here and there in the water surrounding the kayaks inquisitive-like yet cautious. These were not the food of the resident pods that the group was hoping to encounter. It was explained that resident whale pods feed on fish, preferably salmon, whereas transient whale pods prefer mammals such as seals. Would one or the other turn their non-preferred food away? Unlikely.
As the group kayaked almost 5 miles they started nearing the lighthouse on Lime Kiln Point, their lunch spot destination. Having kayaked roughly 2-1/2 hours against the slow moving current they were tired and ready for a break. Adrienne informed the group that as they approached the point they would encounter the most difficult part of kayaking for the day. Due to the full moon set to rise in two days’ time the current along the point was sharp and swift and the group was instructed to paddle hard and quickly through it to reach the beach of the bay. Miranda and Brandon were ahead of the group and were the first to encounter the beastly current.
They both leaned forward into their paddling and stroked hard and swift. This strategy caused their kayak to roll side to side more easily giving them a higher chance of capsizing. However, they maintained their cadence, turned out of the current as soon as possible and were the first to make it successfully to shore. Art and Rita and Lou Ann and Lew both reached the current about the same time. Each tried hard as they might to paddle through but found themselves actually moving backwards no matter how hard they tried. The difficult current caught each of them in its grip and seemed reluctant to let them go. Onlookers on shore stood and watched as they each tried to overpower the monster eddy. Lou Ann and Lew spotted a slight break in the current away from shore and were able to make it to the break and paddle around it to shore. Meanwhile, Art and Rita continued to paddle and eventually also spotted a small break toward shore and were last to reach the beach. All were exhausted, thirsty and hungry but happy to make it successfully to shore. The group agreed Deadman’s Bay was aptly named!
Lunch ensued with the knowledge that the paddle back would be with the current and much easier. As the group sat on huge drift logs on the beach eating their lunches they watched power boats reach the horrid current and could hear their engines bog down as they powered up to break through. This gave the group a new appreciation for what they had just accomplished. Just then news came over the radio that the pods had moved southward earlier and encountering them would be likely. The news made everyone elated and excited to get back on the water. Lunch was finished, everything packed away and the group headed back out. This time going with the current they quickly found their way out of the bay into open water where the depth of the water was upwards of 1,000 feet deep.
News came over the radio that the pods were now less than 1 mile away and on a heading straight toward the group. The pods were estimated at 20-25 killer whales and moving swiftly. Laws prohibit kayaks or boats from entering the oncoming path of the pods. Distances of 200 yards must be maintained at all times unless the whales approach non-moving vessels. The group met another kayak team that had left the Harbor at the same time and all linked together to form a little flotilla to best position for viewing the on-coming orcas.
As the orcas neared, a multitude of powerboats with onlookers appeared as if out of no where. Their wakes caused the group to rock and sway in the water giving rise to a gyre that slowly turned the flotilla in a circular motion. The group held tight together to counter the wakes like a freshly cast lure. Then the first dorsal and blow spout was seen in the distance!
The orcas drew nearer and their movements were graceful and magical as dorsals large and small cut the surface all around the group. The “swoosh” sound of the blow and the resulting spray was spectacular as the pod swam effortlessly. Mothers and older calves moved simultaneously as larger males (a/k/a-momma’s boys) stayed close to their mothers. Some swam so close the group could easily make out the distinct markings on their sbacks. The whales seemed mindful of the presence of the kayaks and swam effortlessly past the group on all sides, never once causing a wake or issue for the kayaks in spite of their sheer size, unlike the powerboats that continued to charge by in pursuit of the pods causing wake after wake. In spite of this the flotilla maintained the best spot for viewing the pods as the orcas made their way past and further south. It was incredible to be eye-level with such powerful animals yet feel their gentle souls as they graced the group with their presence!
After the last of the pods passed by, the group maintained position until the powerboats left the area. Then the little flotilla separated from each other and made their way back 5 miles to Snug Harbor along the shoreline and with the current. After reaching the Harbor the group headed back to town and found their way to the dinner spot from the night before – the Blue Water where they recounted the day’s adventure in sheer exhaustion and delight over libations.
The following day the group hired a private boat charter to learn more about the surrounding islands and ecosystem of the beautiful Pacific Northwest. This day Miranda wasn’t present since she was starting a naturalist training course at the Whale Museum. The company, Legacy Charters, was based out of Snug Harbor and upon arrival the boat captain, Spencer Domico, introduced himself to the group. He was forty-something and had a warm welcoming smile. They were pleased to hear that Captain Spencer was a trained naturalist just like his father. His boat was well equipped and very comfortable. He proceeded to instruct the group on boat safety and he and the group agreed on the agenda for the day which consisted of all things natural and interesting based on his experience. He informed the group the the orca pods had not yet been spotted but he knew where the humpback whales and the transient killer whales frequented. The dilemma with this was that it would take the whole day to reach them far offshore leaving no time for anything else.
Just as the group opted to head out toward the humpbacks, news came over the radio that J pod was spotted about 45 minutes away! Captain Spencer headed offshore toward the pod. On the way out he steered toward a rocky outcropping that was home to a small seal population and cut the engines. He educated the group about them as the cute seal pups were basking near their mothers in the sun. He also spotted two mature bald eagles flying overhead and educated the group about them as well. Then he continued on in the direction of J pod.
On the way out to the pod he showed the group a photo of a 3-year old female orca named Sookie that he kept on his helm. Her official name was L-112, a member of L pod. He spoke very genuinely and passionately about her as if a member of his family. He encountered her shortly after she was calved and saw her almost daily while out on the boat. He said in 2012 she suddenly disappeared and was later tragically found washed ashore – lifeless. He explained that the loss of a reproductive female is a huge loss to the orca population. An autopsy was performed by government officials and the official cause of death was reported as “blunt force trauma” – the kind caused by boat impacts. He explained that local marine experts believe the “true” cause of death resulted in bleeding toward the back of her head and in other parts of her body. What would cause that? Captain Spencer said the U.S. Navy detonates bombs underwater for military testing purposes in a nearby waters that the pods traverse in and out of. The explosions send tremendous shock waved through their bodies destroying their sonar capabilities and killing them. L-112’s death was never resolved and her skeleton is now on exhibit at the Whale Museum in Friday Harbor as a reminder of the tragedy she and other marine life struggle with. There has not been any new calves born in over two years since her death. It is suspected that various pollutents in the seas are effecting the birthing rate of killer whales.
As the Captain neared the location of the J pod the familiar sight of power boats from the day before came into view. He positioned his boat away from the cluster of power boats where the group could sit on the roof deck or bow to observe the happenings of the pod. The orcas again moved effortlessly through the water in their small family units, dorsals rising and falling in the deep blue. Captain Spencer remained ever diligent not to obstruct their path or interfere in any way with their movements. J pod was heading into the Sound toward the shoreline and to various bays to feed. Captain Spencer explained that as they moved closer to shore the pod would scatter to different areas to feed thereby increasing their success rate to feed.
The group was able to trail behind the pod to watch and observe their magnificent movements. The pod was seen socializing with each other as they moved in. This was different from J and K pods the prior day who seemed intent on reaching their destination. While the blows and sprays could be observed they were not as easily audible due to the noise of the boat engines in the area. However, being able to trail the pod allowed the group to observe breaching, tail slaps, rolls and other socializing activities of the orcas. They seemed unperturbed by the presence of the pesky humans and their noisy smelly machines.
The orcas numbered about 35-40 but then started spreading out as Captain Spencer predicted. He followed carefully for what seemed like only minutes but was a few hours in actuality. The group learned so much from him about whale behavior and marine conservation! It was time to head back to the Harbor. As the group disembarked they met the Captain’s wife Rachel and chatted with her. She offered the group a ride back to town. It was apparent that new friendships and stronger familial bonds had been forged.
Once again the group, including Miranda who had her own interaction with orcas that day via her course, met at their favorite water hole, the Blue Water, to recount the day’s happenings and share the amazing community that is Friday Harbor and the richness of the marine diversity it surrounds. While each has their own personal experiences from the days spent among the orcas, it is clear that everyone feels more closely connected to the soulful giants that are killer whales!